Insider: Evelīna Melbārzde
Diplomat EVELĪNA MELBĀRZDE has been living in Madrid for more than three years now. One of her favourite spots in the city is the large Retiro Park in the heart of Madrid. "When it is really hot, the park becomes a refuge for anyone who needs a larger dose of nature than the bits and pieces bought at a florist's or greengrocer's. The premises of the park are big enough and there seems to be room for everyone. I am fascinated by this surprisingly harmonious co-existence: joggers, roller-skaters, dogs, picnickers... Qigong adepts with their balance exercises rubbing shoulders with pot smokers, equally focused on losing balance. The sound of African drums in one part of the park, birds are free to have their say in another. Since coming to Spain I have been admiring the great natural talent for enjoying life that people seem to possess here. They do focus on the daily battle for a place under the sun but are also very eager to enjoy the shade and have a nice lie on the lawn - when not busy partying. For an onlooker the whole idyllic picture seems very much like the happy-end final scene of a romantic comedy: you catch yourself expecting the end credits to start rolling any moment.
To art lovers I would recommend a visit to the museum dedicated to the Spanish Impressionist painter Joaquin Sorolla ( 37 General Martínez Campos, http://museosorolla.mcu.es). Not only has the artist managed to capture the heat of the Spanish sun and the chill of the shade in his paintings, but his soul seems to have been smiling while he was at work. I am really surprised so little is known about this Spanish genius outside his native land.
The best insight into the current trends of Spanish art is definitely provided by art galleries. Thursday nights are the time when new exhibitions are opened at galleries in and around the Claudio Coelio Street in the fashionable Salamanca district. To those who are looking for something really fresh and untamed I would recommend the art galleries in the Doctor Fourquet Street and its nearest neighbourhood, not far from the Reina Sofía Art Centre: you are guaranteed to find at least three excellent modern art exhibitions at any given time there, usually representing completely different genres and styles.
For those who hold gastronomic pleasures in high esteem, Madrid is a city of big opportunities: everyone will find something to suit their taste buds, nose, eyes and budget. For enthusiasts of Oriental cuisine: Thai Gardens (5 Jorge Juan, phone 915778880) - a good choice and good prices. For opera lovers: La Favorita (25 Covarrubias, phone 914483810) with operatically inclined aria-singing waiters (however, on weekends the place will be teeming with tourists). For those seeking design-related thrills: Theatriz with its interior created by Philippe Starck (15 Calle Hermosilla, phone 915775379). For gourmets - the new, expensive and slightly snobbish Pan de Lujo (20 Jorge Juan, phone 914361100): you will be greeted like very special guests but do take into account the great number of people prepared to pay good money for that when you think of booking a table. For those who are looking for creative cuisine: the Arola Madrid restaurant owned by the Catalan culinary genius Sergi Arola (at the Reina Sofía Art Centre, 43 Calle Argumosa, phone 914670202, www.arola-madrid.com). Relatively friendly prices at lunchtime, but it seems that a traditional (late) Spanish dinner is no longer an option there: the restaurant is open only during the opening hours of the museum. For those who adore oysters and similar edible sea critters - Sanxenxo (40 Ortega y Gasset, phone 915774654): the décor is a bit on the boring and philistine side but that is definitely irrelevant in this case. Very delicious, quite expensive but very safe: the ultimate freshness of the seafood is guaranteed.
If you just want to grab a bite and be on your way...
... in Chueca be sure to visit Isolee (19 Infantas, phone 915228138, www.isolee.es). An incredible variety of takeaway bottled water, at least a dozen different brands; with their design and price they remind of perfume reasonably priced salads. Isolee has much more to offer than a simple meal. The store is not very big, and yet it also sells food on the go, all sorts of delicacies, designer clothes, accessories, tasteful and expensive knickknacks, magazines and design books. If you buy a Segway (for some EUR 700), you will also get free "driving" lessons as a bonus. Isolee always manages to surprise me with something unexpected, like white tea chocolate or vodka with chocolate.
In La Latina neighbourhood try Juana la Loca -"crazy Juana" - (4 Plaza Puerta de Moros, phone 91 364 05 25). The place is always full, and that's only natural: the food is delicious and prices very modest. The menu lists 30 different tapas and pinxtos, that's a good way of getting a quick insight into Spanish culinary traditions. Just a few steps away you will find Lamiak (42 Cava Baja, phone 913655212), a similar place but with a touch of the excellent Basque cuisine.
In the Salamanca district look up El Lateral (57 Velázquez, phone 91 435 06 04); the restaurant is jam-packed every Thursday, Friday and Saturday night: this is one of the usual hangouts for thirtysomethings who come here to have their dinner before hitting the party scene. A wide range of original tapas on offer. The kitchen works till about 1 am. Nice music, tasteful décor and wonderful ambience. EUR 20 per person should buy you a proper dinner. You will find a sister-restaurant of El Lateral in Chueca as well (43 C/Fuencarral).
To those for whom it matters that their memories of Madrid take a tangible form I would recommend Chueca, a district with a high concentration of branches of popular Madrid stores and also quite a lot of shops the likes of which you won't find anywhere else in Spain. Travellers would do wise to check out Coronel Tapiocca (9 Fuencarral, www.coroneltapiocca.com), a travel clothes, accessories and equipment store, the perfect place for moments when officewear seems a bit too confining for your soul. You will also find excellent and pleasantly-priced linen there.
Design footwear hunters might find useful two Augusto Figueroa Street addresses: Nos. 27 (Caligae) and 14 (Ambar).
If you like picture books and are not afraid to admit that your childhood was too short - Custo Barcelona (29, Fuencarral, www.custo-barcelona.com) is made for you: colour- and style-wise original T-shirts and dresses with 50s and 60s style appliqué work.
To all the life's darlings looking for exclusive and sophisticated things and clothes I would recommend a visit to 3 Luis de Gongora where you will find everything to prepare yourself or your loved one for a very special day or perhaps simply turn an ordinary day into a very special moment. Silk garments so exquisite you will feel that looking at them is a privilege in itself.
In search for original design objects for your home pay a visit to Mimomoss (10 Conde de Xiquena, www.mimomoss.com). It is worth checking out even if you're not thinking of buying anything, just to admire the ingenuity of the designers like you would at an exhibition.
And finally - every day ends with a night...
One of the best things to do would be going to La Latina neighbourhood packed with all sorts of nice places; start with Plaza Humilladero and work your way in the direction of San Andres. Very soon you will notice that you are letting the road lead you. At Delic (14 Costanilla San Andres) you will find the best mojitos in Madrid.
For really lazy and/or tired days I would suggest Areia Colonial Chill Out (92 Hortaleza, phone 913100307, www.areiachillout.com), a cosy place where you won't notice the time pass. Good cocktails, exotic tapas. If you're feeling like the ultimate couch potato and fancy a night of good laze-about, book the Areia Colonial Chill Out special corner in advance. The dj won't fail you.
Dejate Besar -translates as "let me kiss you" - (10 Hermanos Bácquer, phone 915625485) is a charismatic place where they play good music.
If you feel that you can keep up with the Spanish, it makes sense to check out a few clubs outside the historic centre, in the tourist-free zone. I recommend 69 Petalos (32 Alberto Alcocer) and the nearby Liberata (43 Alberto Alcocer) where the real clubbing starts only at 2-3 am."
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